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Faced with a labor shortage in the crafts, luxury houses create their “schools”

Alparslan Murat Aysu by Alparslan Murat Aysu
27 June 2022
Reading Time: 2 mins read
0
amsellem-hermes

Caroline Fraissinet is a saddler-leather craftsman at the Hermès School of know-how. Les Abrets-en-Dauphiné

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Leather goods, watches, fabrics… To respond to rising orders and recruitment difficulties, luxury companies, such as Hermès and LVMH, have created their own training program.

“What company is this here? asks the taxi driver after driving on the roads of the Isère countryside. His journey will stop at the foot of an automatic gate and his question will remain unanswered. Hermès does not want to shout from the rooftops that the building nestled in a green setting at the exit of the village of Fitilieu hosts one of its nineteen leather goods workshops and its first training center. Since September 2021, the site has welcomed a promotion of 35 apprentices selected to train in the trade of saddler-leatherworker and obtain a CAP. Last February, 35 other recruits began their eighteen-month apprenticeship in this former weaving factory.

Inside, Lana Coomans, 21, is busy at her table. Between his fingers, pieces of leather that will make up a Kelly bag, one of the flagship models of the house, which cannot be bought for less than 7,000 euros – it can cost two to three times more. Already holder of a CAP in leather goods and a BTS in fashion and footwear, she knocked on the door of Hermès. “I was drawn to the quality and history of this band,” she says. I wanted to work as much as possible by hand, without using machines. She chose well: here, most of the tasks are done manually, starting with the saddle stitch, which characterizes all the brand’s bags.

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The “professional future” law of September 2018 allowed private companies to open their own apprentice training center (CFA). Hermès therefore jumped at the chance and founded the Hermès School of know-how last September. “For us, it was obvious,” explains Vincent Vaillant, Hermès human resources director for leather goods and saddlery. This system allows us to enhance our in-house training, to transmit our know-how and to issue a diploma recognized by the National Education. »

A commitment that the carriage brand also pursues out of necessity. The curve of bag orders being inversely proportional to that of the number of operational craftsmen, it was necessary to react so that the production lines continue to turn. “We train to meet the growth needs of our workshops,” admits Vincent Vaillant.

Alparslan Murat Aysu

Alparslan Murat Aysu

He was born in 1986 in Uşak, Turkey. His grandfather had a tannery in Uşak in the 1900s and his father had stores in Istanbul Beyazit, Tbilisi and Moscow and a workshop in Zeytinburnu, so he spent his childhood in his father's leather shop. In 2009, after graduating from Marmara University Journalism Department in Turkey, he started his first journalism career in the national press. He completed his master's program in Sociology. Her journalism life started as a reporter, photojournalist, editor and design at Hűrriyet Newspaper, then she moved to International Media, which has an international design award, and focused on design and worked as a newspaper page designer. Then he left journalism for a while and learned how to sail sailboats and yachts by operating a boat in Fethiye, Turkey's tourism region. While working as a boat operator, he started working remotely in graphic design and editing at Sabancı Holding in Turkey. In 2021, he started journalism with the network in the leather industry that he provided in his childhood and started his editorial life by preparing the Magazine Leather website.

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