Magazine Leather Publishing conducted an interview on “The Sustainable Leather Forum and the Leather Sector in France in 2025” with Mr. Christophe DEHARD, President of the French National Leather Council ALLIANCE FRANCE CUIR, and Mr. Yves Morin, President of the Sustainable Leather Forum:
Mr. Christophe DEHARD, first of all, we would like to get to know you.
A little over a year ago, I took over as president of Alliance France Cuir, which brings together 21 federations covering all stages of the sector, from raw material to finished product. My goal: to create links among all stakeholders; every link counts. I also serve as President of the French Federation of Hides and Skins, Vice President of the CTC, and continue my professional career. For more than thirteen years, I have been with AgroMousquetaires, the agri-food division of the Intermarché group, which has 53 production sites across France, including several slaughterhouses. My entire career has been built in the agri-food sector, with a particular focus on the meat industry.
Mr. Yves Morin, first of all, we would like to get to know you.
Until 2018, I worked for 20 years at CTC (Centre Technique du Cuir – Technical Centre for Leather, Footwear, and Leather Goods), first as Secretary General and then as CEO. CTC is one of the world’s leading research, training, and quality testing centers in leather, footwear, and leather goods. Since 2018, I have been running the Sustainable Leather Forum, which I co-founded, for the past seven years, and I also taught “International Social and Environmental Audits” at Lyon University for 14 years.
In addition, from 2010 to 2023, I served as President of UITIC (International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians).
Mr. Yves Morin, this year you held the 7th edition of the “SUSTAINABLE LEATHER FORUM” internationally. How did the 2025 event go? What would you like to share?
The 7th edition of the Sustainable Leather Forum was a great success, attracting strong participation with over 300 attendees, despite the heavy competition in the calendar (UITIC in Shanghai, IULTCS in Lyon). This level of attendance confirms the Forum’s growing international influence.
Our program is increasingly focused on deeper and more impactful topics. This year, three main themes stood out: the role of water in the leather value chain, sustainability in exotic leathers with a focus on crocodile leather, and climate change, particularly the role of methane in livestock farming. These are complex and sometimes sensitive issues, and we were committed to providing solid, science-based content to foster conscious and constructive dialogue.
Mr. Christophe DEHARD, how would you evaluate 2025 in terms of markets for the French leather and leather goods sector?
According to the Economic Observatory of Alliance France Cuir, the beginning of 2025 followed the same trend as 2024: a slowdown in the luxury segment and a difficult start in China. Volumes fell in both value and quantity; especially in our two largest markets, the USA and China. Trade tensions and the return of protectionism are creating uncertainty. The emergence of new Chinese luxury brands is reshaping the landscape.
In 2024, the French Leather Industry recorded a €5.5 billion trade surplus; imports remained stable at €13.7 billion, while exports rose by 1% to €19.2 billion. Spain and Southeast Asia stood out in imports, while Japan continues to be a key export market. Raw hides and skins performed well in imports, while leather goods continued to drive our exports.
The Sustainable Leather Forum focused on water and drought. In your opinion, how much will this issue affect the future of the leather industry and, in particular, agriculture and livestock farming in today’s age of artificial intelligence?
Yves Morin ⇒
Water is a universal issue. Whatever the sector, everyone faces this problem. It is very important that the leather sector is not unfairly targeted. There are two key dimensions to address. The first is water quality. Our sector has the obligation to progress toward higher standards, which means changes in processes, especially in tanneries. The second dimension is the amount of water used. The European tanning sector has already made progress in this area. In recent years, there has been about a 10% improvement in water consumption. Ongoing investments will further increase this result.
As for artificial intelligence; for example, it allows us to improve our knowledge of soils worldwide through the analysis of data from satellite observations, particularly with regard to water stress. It also plays a very strong role in applications that provide greater traceability.
Mr. Yves Morin, have you already defined a theme for the 2026 Sustainable Leather Forum? Could you briefly summarize any focus areas you would like to highlight?
Each edition is becoming increasingly focused and impactful, and I have no doubt that we will maintain this momentum. It is still too early to announce the themes for the next edition, but our commitment to addressing the industry’s core challenges remains unchanged.
Mr. Christophe DEHARD, what do you think are the priorities for the sector in terms of “Sustainability, Traceability, and Certification,” which are driving the global industry forward?
Traceability is becoming increasingly important, but the challenge is making it accessible to all players. Today, only a few have the capacity to implement it, and mostly for cost reasons; this is a real issue for many SMEs that make up our industrial fabric. The key is to turn sustainability and CSR into opportunities, not constraints. Europe, once a pioneer in CSR, now appears stagnant, as seen with CSRD and deforestation regulations, which creates uncertainty. We must not allow environmental priorities to be overlooked. I believe that the power of collective action will be decisive in tackling future challenges. This is a critical time, with real opportunities for transformation and innovation. With SLF, our aim is to encourage dialogue, share knowledge, and bring together stakeholders who rarely meet, so that they can better understand each other and work together.
We would like to hear the opinion of both presidents: Finally, with technological progress, how do you see the importance of recycling in the industry?
Christophe Dehard ⇒
Efforts to reduce water use are simply common sense — we know how to rethink our processes, and we are doing it. But we must also accept the cost that comes with these changes. Here, innovation plays a very important role; whether developing new processes or rethinking the use of chemicals, we are always seeking the right balance between innovation and preservation.
Yves Morin ⇒
Recycling has many dimensions, and the topic is very broad! I am referring to raw material recycling, for example, the use of waste, or the recycling of finished products. In this respect, there is also a major issue concerning end-of-life shoes; today, they are not being recycled. There is a lot of talk about it, but solutions are not yet in place! However, the issue will inevitably have to be addressed by overcoming two levels of challenge: the transport of collected end-of-life shoes, and technically, the dismantling of shoes that can be made of up to forty different materials. There are quite a number of issues.
As Magazine Leather Publishing, we thank you for taking the time for us.
We thank you for contributing to the development of the sector. We wish you successful publications.
